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Text only version
If you would like to join us on a musical
virtual journey to Florence, click
here (sound and Media Player
needed).
I spent a week in Florence with my daughter Sarah, an Art
History student, at the end of the summer, in order to expand her knowledge of
Renaissance art - and mine. We booked flights with Thomsonfly and after many
hours spent researching the web, arranged to spend the week at the
Hotel
Casci, right in the city centre. I
don't propose to add too much text to my report, as it could easily extend to
dozens of pages if I start on historical facts, but there is plenty of info
available on the web for anyone interested in further detail. I recommend this guide book, the AA Spiral Guide, which was
tremendously useful. I took it everywhere with me. It's divided into useful
sections and includes maps and lots of information about the city and the
sights, both famous and lesser known. Museum opening times can be quite complex
so make sure you read the info properly, especially if you are on a short trip
and want to pack in as much as possible.
Click
here to buy the guidebook.
30/08/05
Our flight was between Bournemouth and Pisa, direct flights into
Florence being very few and far between. The flight was fine and we arrived in
Pisa at 3pm, where we caught a bus into Florence. The hotel, part of a 15th
Century palace, lived up to all expectations, very well located, exceptionally
friendly service and spotlessly clean room (if a little small). It was once part
of the home of the composer Rossini and still has some original frescoed
ceilings. We went out in the evening to find somewhere for dinner and
hadn't appreciated quite how central the hotel is. We ate a lovely meal at the
Ristorante Accademia at the Piazza San Marco and took a rather lengthy walk back
via the Duomo, not realising until a few days later that we were actually only a
few hundred yards from the Casci! I tend to rely on my husband Martyn for
map-reading but this time had to cope with it on my own, Sarah being even worse
than me at that particular skill. I certainly improved during the week.
31/08/05
After breakfast, which is included and is a fairly basic but
adequate buffet, we picked up some brochures and spent an hour or so planning
our week and some excursions further afield. These were booked for us at
reception, which made it much easier for us. We had already booked tickets for
the Uffizi and Accademia Galleries. We then set off to explore the city, first
going to the Duomo, the magnificent cathedral at the end of our road. There were
long queues so we carried on walking to the Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge
across the River Arno. It's lined with shops, especially jewellers.
Dumo |
Ponte Vecchio |
From Piazzale Michelangelo |
Piazzale Michelangelo |
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From San Miniato
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From San Miniato |
San Miniato |
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Across the
river, in the Oltrarno district, we had a light lunch and then went to the
Pitti Palace, hoping to visit a couple of the 6 museums housed there. However,
the ones which most interested us (Modern Art - 1784-1924!! and the Costume
Museum) are both closed in the afternoons so decided to change our plans.
Opening times can get very complicated and I hadn't studied my guidebook closely
enough. So we took the longish walk up to San Miniato It was incredibly hot
and a relief to reach the Piazzale Michelangelo, from which there are stunning
views across the city. We carried on, up more hills until we reached San
Miniato. It was worth it - the church is beautiful, cool and peaceful and the
views from here even better. And we treated ourselves to sorbet on the way back
down.
01/09/05
We had 10am tickets for the Uffizi Gallery - fortunately, none of the main
sights were more than 15 minutes walk from our hotel, and found the streets very
quiet at that time of the day. The Uffizi is full of religious paintings, and
after 3 hours, you do wonder if you really want to see yet another Madonna and
Child. It was a treat to see Botticelli's Birth of Venus, for a change! It's
certainly an incredible treasury of Renaissance painting and a must-see for
anyone with an interest in the subject. We had ridiculously expensive drinks on
the rooftop terrace but felt we deserved them. We then went through the Piazza
della Signoria, with its huge statues and on to Santa Maria Novella, passing
some very exclusive shops on the way. The church was beautiful and full of
incredible frescoes. Then back to the Duomo, which still had a huge queue - so
we had ice cream instead. After a rest back at the hotel, we went back out to
climb the Duomo's dome, the rest of the building now being closed for the
evening. We climbed 463 steps to the top, taking a breather to admire the inside
of the dome with its frescoes. Looking down into the Duomo, we agreed that even
if we never did face the queues, at least we had seen the inside. Once at the
top, we could see for miles, despite it being rather hazy. Unfortunately the
dome is covered in scaffolding at the moment, which detracted a bit from its
beauty.
Florentine street |
Uffizi roof terrace |
Santa Maria Novella |
Santa Maria Novella |
Duomo |
Duomo & Campanile |
View from Dome |
View from Dome |
At the top of the Dome |
Campanile |
02/09/05
We went hunting for markets today, not having realised there was a really
good one just yards from us, down a road we'd frequently crossed but not looked
down properly! Sarah indulged in a little retail therapy and then in the
afternoon we set off on one of our trips, to Pisa. In retrospect, we would have
been better off arranging this ourselves as it wasn't very well organised and
not cheap. The drive is just over an hour and then we walked to the Piazza dei
Miracoli to see the Duomo and Leaning Tower. We only had a few minutes in the
Duomo (bad organisation) but it was stunningly beautiful and then we were
whisked through the Baptistry and on to the large Campo Santo cemetery, full of
Roman sarcophagi.
Duomo & Tower, Pisa |
Duomo |
Campo Santo |
Campo Santo |
Campo Santo |
Leaning Tower of Pisa |
From a café |
Sue & Sarah at ZaZa |
Damian & Lynne at ZaZa |
After a drink and time spent watching the world go by, we went
back to the coach - the journey took nearly 2 hours this time, half of that
getting through Florence.
In the evening we had arranged to meet up with my Australian
niece and her boyfriend, who were backpacking around Europe. It was a bit of a
rush, but we got a reservation at ZaZa, arranged by the hotel for us. The place
was packed so we were lucky to get in at such short notice. But it was worth it,
great food and reasonably priced. A lovely evening and great to catch up with
the Aussies' travels.
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